Campeche

I remembered the feel of his words, rough and dirty, rushing over my skin.  His vowels were elongated.  Each unfamiliar structure tumbled from his mouth quickly, tenses unformed, everything infused with unintentional urgency.

“Podemos hablar en español,” I said, but he ignored me.  After a while I stopped listening and just watched the way his stomach moved on his inhalations, and the drops of sweat snaking their way down his chest onto the mattress, bisecting him at his rib cage.

I wanted to be back on that dirty mattress with him, drunk and dizzy, not caring.

His friend dropped us off in front of a yard with a rusty chain link fence.

“Talk,” Fernando said and gestured toward a woman sitting at the far end of the yard, “entre mujeres.”

I walked back, threading my way through old car parts and metal barrels filled with newspaper and rags.  The ground was muddy with green weeds pushing up everywhere.  There were a few children running around and a couple of skinny old dogs.  The girl stood as I approached and asked if I wanted a coke.  She addressed me using the formal “you,” and I felt uncomfortable. I wiped the back of my hand over my mouth, hard, trying to get rid of the stain of last night’s lipstick.

The toucans began croaking in the banyan trees.  Dark clouds were moving in and the air was thick and heavy.  The air tasted like salt.  I felt my skin, nostrils, lungs, throat being hydrated.

She sliced white crescents from a coconut, squeezed lime and sprinkled chile, and then handed the pieces to her children.  When she bent down her braid fell forward.  I wanted to grab that braid and hold on.  It was black and shiny except at the tips where it had lightened and dried out, bleached by the jungle sun.  I thought it would probably feel warm and real in my hand.

“You don’t have to live forever,” Fernando had said when we woke up that morning, still half drunk.

“Yes I do,” I said.  ”Now I do.”

“Why are you here?” the girl asked.

“Vacation,” I lied. Her eyes shone.

“Have you traveled?” I asked.  She shook her head.

“I want to move to your country,” she said.  Her kids were gathering under the tin roof and sitting on boxes, getting ready for the rain.

“This is paradise,” I said, and gestured to the palms hanging low, the reddish gray sky.  She looked at the children, the rotting wooden floorboards, her husband and Fernando smoking cigarettes by the road.  ”No, this is not paradise,” she said.

We took a taxi back to my hotel.  Fernando couldn’t hustle me for anything else, I was broke, so he kissed me and walked across the street to the lagoon.  I waited on the beach for a while, watching the sun set in slivers where the clouds separated.  When I went inside the chill of the room shocked me.  I turned off the ac and opened the sliding glass door to the balcony.  I opened the screen and turned off the lights.  I didn’t care about mosquitoes or other bugs right then.  I kind of wanted someone  to drink my blood.


Kicking in Malibu

This is why the kick reminds us that we are alive:

Malibu.  I can feel my bones and muscles inside me, breaking, stretching.  My skin is hot and bumpy, my hair hurts where it is attached to my scalp.  There is a growing fire in my chest and I feel like it’s burning me from the inside out.

My brain is hyper-alert, receptors suddenly stripped, shallow reserves of dopamine depleted by the last orgasm.   My body seizes and jerks.

The pain was visceral and fulfilling, terrifying.  Pain seems like such an inadequate word.

But I knew I was alive.  The kick was in every cell, violent, and I felt it.

It was December and freezing and we would huddle on the balcony smoking and trying to feel better.  We could hear the ocean at night.  I was always trying to smell it.   I didn’t sleep for a long time and I couldn’t stay still. So I watched vh1 all night on the flat screen TV and tried to read a Kurt Cobain biography and tossed and jerked and froze and ached in that luxury room: high thread count sheets, plush carpeting, walk-in closet, ocean view.  I remember the curtains were dark blue and very heavy. I took a bath when I could, because hot water was the only thing that could make my body stay still. I could rest there, and would fall asleep until I slipped too low and water in my nose woke me up. Then add some more hot water and try it again. It was the only sleep I got those nights. As soon as I got out of the water it was horrible again.

It felt lonely. Once I went upstairs and lay on the white couch next to the night RA while he watched a martial arts movie and dozed. “Have you ever kicked heroin?” I asked. “No,” he said, “but I’ve been with someone who has.” Later I found out it was his girlfriend, a dope addict who had relapsed once since they had been together. I was jealous of that girl and later tried to find out all about her. Someone told me that she was an artist, really cool, had a kind of seventies style, “like Charlies Angels.”


Eleven

I was eleven when a new strip mall opened on Laurel Canyon and Roscoe.  There was a Mervyn’s, a 31 Flavors, a supermarket, a Filipino restaurant, a hallmark store and a Chuck E. Cheese.  I think that was the first Chuck E. Cheese in the valley.  Daddy called me when he discovered it.  He was very excited, like he’d invented the idea of combining pizza, video games, robotic rats and beer a long time ago and someone else had finally made it happen.

One night we ordered pepperoni pizza and then Daddy bought me ten dollars worth of tokens for the games.  While we were waiting for our food we played skeeball.  Daddy made trick shots, banking the wooden ball against the side of the alley to get it in the forty or fifty point hole every time.  I was okay but I usually only got it in the ten point hole.  Daddy played so well that by the time our pizza was ready he had already won enough tickets for me to trade in for something good like a small stuffed animal.  I only ever won enough to get an 8oz chuck e cheese drinking glass or glow in the dark vampire teeth.  The little metal slot under Daddy’s skeeball lane had already spit out a strip of red tickets long enough to make some little kids stop and stare.  I grabbed those tickets and tore them off at the base, folded them and put them in my jeans pocket to save for later.  We decided to keep our tickets until we had enough to trade in for a really big stuffed animal.  I had my eye on a sitting white lion with clear blue plastic eyes and a black nose whose head almost reached my chest.

After we ate I went back into the arcade and Daddy went into the room with the big screen TV to drink red wine and watch sports.  That room had the biggest TV I had ever seen.  In my memory it takes up the entire rear wall of the restaurant and the football players are life-size.

First I played Centipede.  I kept the shooting button pressed down continuously so as the fluorescent yellow or green or red centipede made its way back and forth and down the screen I just had to manipulate the trackball.  I liked the sharp little sound the bullets made as they hit the insect and separated its body into segments.  There were different electronic tunes that would signal an occasional spider, flea or scorpion.  All the insects would kill you if you didn’t kill or evade them first.  Sometimes you could trap a centipede between two mushrooms and destroy all of its segments in a matter of a few satisfying seconds of rapid firing.  Centipede was like a warm-up for Zaxxon, a newer game which I played like an expert.  Zaxxon was one of the first 3D arcade video games and the object was to shoot everything in sight from your plane as you flew forward in a floating fortress, rising up and swooping down in order to avoid walls and laser barriers.  When you reached the end of the fortress you were in open space and you had to destroy a fleet of enemy fighters.  Then you were back to flying through a different, trickier fortress.  After making several passes you fought a final boss – a giant robot who fired missiles.  I was a natural at Zaxxon and I had learned to finish the whole game.  I knew one of the secrets: shoot at every transparent laser barrier—your bullet’s impact will show you exactly where the barrier begins and ends.

I played Zaxxon for another hour.  I got one of the high scores and put my initials in.  I watched the other moms and dads come and tell their kids it was getting late, time to go home.  I could stay as long as I wanted.  Daddy would keep on drinking and sitting in that TV room until I told him I wanted to go home.  When I was tired of the game I went back into the dark room and stood next to his table.

“Hey ali pali,” he said.

“We should go home,” I said, “they’re going to close soon.”

“Let’s just rest here for a little while,” he said.

I waited.  He was watching highlights of a football game and finishing a glass of wine.  As the clip changed to a commercial he turned to me.

“You can never be a cheerleader, Allison,” he said.  His gaze was unfocused.

“Why not?” I asked.  I had no intentions of becoming a cheerleader and I kind of knew this answer already but I didn’t like to be told what to do.

“Cheerleaders are sexual objects,” he said flatly.

“They are like dancers or gymnasts,” I argued.

“No,” he said, “they are just for sex.  Men look at them and want them.  They are wearing short skirts.  It’s dangerous.”

I wouldn’t win this argument; my father had ten years’ worth of playboys under his bed.

“We should get going,” I said.

He got up, a little unsteady on his feet.  He complained he had a stomachache.  I thought it was probably the red wine.  Usually at Chuck E Cheese he got a pitcher of beer.  At home he drank vodka and told me it was water.

As we pulled out of the strip mall parking lot Daddy started talking again.  His voice sounded low and crackly, like he was straining his throat muscles to speak.  We turned right onto Laurel Canyon.  The car was moving very slowly.

“Someday I might have someone, a woman in my life, Alli,” he said.  “I’m an adult and your mother is not here.  Your mother was interested in other men.  You have to understand if I go out with another woman.”

He waited.  I didn’t say anything.

“Alli?”

“Okay,” I said and stared out the window.  I studied the signs we passed:  Liquor, Wine, Beer; $1 Chinese Food; Chevron; Rocky’s Raquetball; Bob’s Big Boy.

“Because I am a man and I still need some things from a woman.  I might go out to dinner with someone.  A lady.  I’ll still love you more than anyone else.”  He paused again and I felt like he was waiting for some response from me.

“Mm hmm,” I said.

“No one will ever replace you Alli, you know that.  I couldn’t live without you.  You are everything to me.”  He stopped talking for a couple of minutes.  I was watching the light bulbs around the sign for Al’s Alibi.  They were timed so that it looked like one light was racing around the perimeter of the sign.  But one bulb was broken, right above the apostrophe.  This had the effect of making the racing bulb pause for a second, like it needed a rest.

“You need to be careful, Allison.”

I finally looked at him.  His eyes were on the road, his head was tilted a little to the side.

“Okay,” I said.

“You need to be careful, Allison,” he said again, “there are bad guys, boys, they will want things from you and they will try to persuade you.  You should not ever be with boys.  It’s not safe for you.”

I felt a familiar nausea rising up inside me and a lump forming in my throat.

We pulled into the driveway and as soon as he put on the parking brake I opened my door and got out of the car.

“Hold on Allison,” he said while he got out of his side, slowly.  I waited.

“You know I love you Alli?”

“Yes.”

“You know you are everything?  I love you more than anyone.  I can’t live without you.”

“I know, Daddy.”  I didn’t want him to see that I was upset.  I wiped a tear from the corner of my eye because I didn’t know what would happen if he saw me crying.  He would either sink into self-hatred so horrifying it would make me guilty for weeks or he would become so attentive I would become desperate for escape.

Daddy opened all the locks on the front door and we went into the darkened house.

“What do you want to do? Watch TV? Play Atari?”  We had a new big screen TV and a smaller TV that was used only for Atari.

“Watch TV.”

He turned on the TV and reached into the console and changed the channels until I found something I liked.  It was “Love Boat.”  I knew after “Love Boat” there was “Fantasy Island.”  “Love Boat” was funny but the show I really liked was “Fantasy Island.”  When Daddy stayed up to watch with me he would imitate Tattoo saying “The plane, boss, the plane!”  I would say “Smiles everyone, smiles,” just like Mr. Roarke.  I desperately wanted to spend a vacation on a tropical island with Mr. Roarke and Tattoo.  I heeded the barely-hidden message in every fantasy – be careful what you wish for – and I didn’t want to be one of the regular guests.  I wanted to be a host.  I wanted the satisfaction of showing people that appearances can be deceiving.  I thought I would be a kind and gentle host and when I wasn’t helping my guests realize the true value of their lives I could just run around in the bamboo and swim in the ocean.  I wasn’t allowed to change the channels myself because the set was new and tricky and Daddy thought I might reach in and get an electric shock.  I would be fine if he fell asleep.  I had programming for two hours.

The next morning it was difficult for me to wake Daddy up.  When he finally sat up in his bed, clearing his throat and rubbing his forehead, he said he wanted to go out for breakfast.  We went into the bathroom to get ready and I started crying while we were brushing our teeth.  He brought me back into the living room.  Sitting down next to me, he put his arms around me.

“What is it, Alli?”

I leaned into his white tee-shirt and took some deep breaths.

“You were different last night,” I said.  I sniffed, swallowed, rubbed my knuckles in my eyes.

“What do you mean?”  Daddy looked down at me.  His eyes looked sad and old.

“Daddy please don’t drink red wine,” I said.  “You acted funny and I didn’t understand what you were talking about on the way home.”  I started crying again but I kept it under control, swallowing air whenever I felt a sob rising up.

“Okay Alli, okay.”  I knew he didn’t know why he was agreeing to this.  I knew he probably didn’t remember our conversation.  But he hated it when I was sad.  It tore him apart.

“Allison, please stop crying.  I won’t drink red wine anymore.  I’m sorry.”

“Promise,” I said.  I knew he couldn’t keep a promise not to drink anymore.  But he didn’t get the same way when he was drinking beer or vodka.  He hugged me and held me close to him for a long time.  He still smelled like wine but now it was mixed with sweat and sleep and toothpaste.

“I promise, Alli,” he said.  “I don’t want to make you cry.”


New Mexico, 35 degrees.

It’s nights like these that I can’t stop thinking about you and those deserted middle of the night Albuquerque roads.

There was a dive bar where we drank Bohemia and tequila shots and played on a pool table with ripped felt.  It was impossible to make a straight shot.  It was freezing outside.  I didn’t know that kind of cold.  I still don’t.


tonight.

I feel rubbed raw lately, nerve endings exposed and torn.  It’s the kind of pain that makes me avoid the newspaper and television.  When I’m tired I remember what worked: the dope, the drinks, the hospital.

“How’s your spiritual fitness?”  She asks.  And, “Go to a meeting.  Help someone.”  I will.  I trust her.  I will go tomorrow.

Right now I need to curl up around my child, let the heat of his skin sink into me, feel his heart beating so fast and close to the surface like a little bird.  When I wake up I will walk the dog, go to the gym, have breakfast with my mom.

I’m not sure why it’s always worse at night and in the morning.  Maybe the sunlight burns it up like mold.  Maybe I just need to sit in the sun for a while.


purge.

I could take you like a pill, exceed the recommended dosage, keep going until I’m on the floor and need my stomach pumped to get you completely out of me. 
I come home with a sore throat and a burnt taste on my tongue, resolve replacing anxiety.
Then I miss you and need you, and you’re back in my pocket and in my mouth again and I can’t stop.
They know me in the ER now.  My throat is mutating to accommodate the tube. 


En route to San Diego, Amtrak

image

So much nostalgia, all the time. It’s overwhelming. I want to live everywhere.


Green Hills

Green Hills Memorial Park, San Pedro, November, 2001

My father and his father are buried in one grave.  My father, Patrick, died first and lies on the bottom.  My grandparents bought the burial plots for themselves but then their children began to die.  When the first one died they just boGreen Hills, LA Harborught an extra plot.  When my father died they came up with the double decker idea.  They had enough money for another plot but they didn’t buy one.  Maybe there wasn’t enough space on that little hill or maybe they were just being practical.

My grandparents knew how to be practical: they lived in the same little two-bedroom house on Soto Street until they died, making alterations as needed.  Like the piano they moved into the second bedroom when the children grew up and moved out.  Or the iron gate and window bars they bought to protect their front door as the neighborhood declined.  My grandfather had guns.  He never used them as far as I know until he used one on himself.  Once, when I was a child, Daddy and I visited them and my grandfather took out his guns to show me.  He held the guns, turned them, showed them to me from various angles, mimed pulling the trigger.  The living room curtains were closed except for a thin gap where the two pieces of cloth didn’t meet.  A yellow rectangle of sunlight came through that gap and glanced off the metal, making the gun shine bright in my eyes in a magical way.

“Go ahead and touch it,” my grandfather said.  I hesitated.  That sparkle made me think the metal would burn my skin.  He held it closer to my body.  The barrel was turned so that it was facing daddy.  I reached out a tentative finger and pulled back quickly.  But the metal was cold not hot.  My grandfather started laughing.  He was drunk.

The graves are lined up from left to right like this: the oldest child Robert whose headstone lists his military service and has an American flag carved into the granite and some saying about serving god and his country.  Robert died at forty-five of liver disease brought on by alcoholism.  Then there’s the double grave that holds my father and my grandfather.  My father also died of alcohol-related liver disease at forty-nine.  My grandfather, whose name was Robert but who was called waddy, wad or tata, died indirectly from alcoholism: after many years of abstinence he decided to drink again to relieve some pain.  One night when he was particularly drunk he shot himself in the head.  The final grave of the three belongs to my grandmother, Rose.  She died of cancer.

As I walked from my car to the graves I took off my shoes so I could feel the grass against my feet.  One summer I volunteered at the Blind Children’s Center downtown and my most vivid memory is of the transformation that would occur on those kids’ faces as they walked barefoot from the classroom out onto the grass.  I closed my eyes for a moment and concentrated.  I felt the soles and edges of my feet sinking into the damp earth.  I smelled a mixture of dirt and faint sun and lawn chemicals.

Green Hills Mortuary is in Rancho Palos Verdes and overlooks the Los Angeles Harbor.  The cemetery is a series of rolling green hills intersected by little roads.  There are mausoleums and large granite and marble banks of niches for cremation urns.  Charles Bukowski is buried in the Ocean View area.  The section in which my family is buried is called Memory Lawn and it consists of a large rectangular hill of green grass with tall leafy trees planted at random intervals.  There are narrow roads that border three sides of the rectangle and you can park at the side of any of these roads and walk onto the grass and see all of the gray and black square headstones dissecting the landscape in lopsided rows.  It looks like the rows were once perfectly symmetrical but then the ground shifted and moved everybody around.  Now there are indentations and little hills and bare areas with only dirt.  There aren’t any raised headstones on that hill, only the uniform square ones.  The McCabes are near the bottom of the hill and when I come I park on the road that borders the bottom edge of Memory Lawn.  When I’ve gone to funerals there, exactly four times, I’ve always parked at the top edge and walked down, usually in high heels, teetering and sinking into the soft wet dirt.  We sit on white plastic chairs while the coffins are lowered into the ground.  A Catholic priest is always there to provide comfort; hope.  At my grandfather’s funeral one of the undertakers lingered at the edge of our group until the service was over.  He kept staring at my cousin Melanie.  Finally she smiled at him and that was invitation enough for him to come over to her and ask her out on a date.  Later over cold cuts and booze in some neighbor’s house Melanie told the story.  Everyone was tipsy or drunk.  We all laughed.

The air feels cleaner in that cemetery because I’m up high and the grass is green and I can see the ocean.  My father grew up in East L.A. where it was hot and smoggy and stifling.  But he still found joy there and his own escape.  He was a violin prodigy and a gifted artist.  He excelled in school.  He and his brothers and sister had two little dachshunds named Peanut and Whitey.  My father told me that he would put on his roller-skates and Peanut would pull him down the hill; fast.

The graves are on an incline and when I reached them I sat down above my father’s stone and folded my legs underneath me.  I put down the red and white carnation I had bought at the cemetery flower store and a little peace earth flag card on which I had written “Happy birthday.  I miss you daddy.  I love you.”  It was sunny with a breeze off the ocean and quiet except for the muted buzz of the bulldozers and the occasional burst of squawking seagulls.  I looked down and saw ants crawling in and out of the earth and climbing blades of grass.  I watched as one began navigating the arch of my foot.  I didn’t feel the ant’s tiny feet against my skin.  I didn’t feel anything.


Glitter Gulch – in progress

As soon as the bus left Los Angeles I felt freer, like I could breathe more easily.  I leaned my head against the window and watched the landscape change as we drove east.  Miles of desert were punctuated with dry brush and trees.  Hills made of red and brown rocks rose out of the dirt at intervals, casting shadows over the freeway.  The air beyond the mountains looked orange- blue and dusty.  When the freeway narrowed to two lanes we slowed, inching along behind a string of red taillights.  The mood in the bus changed from excitement to frustration.  “We need to get there and lose some money!” Someone joked and everyone laughed.

As we exited the freeway, I pressed my palm against the window to see if I could feel the desert heat through the glass.

From the outside, the Las Vegas greyhound station looked magical.  The walls above the greyhound logo were paneled with large shimmery gold tiles which reflected the buildings across the street.  Later I would discover that the exterior walls of many buildings in Las Vegas were covered with gold and silver tiles, and the windows were all reflective glass so that at night every light was multiplied, shimmering into each mirror and glass and creating an infinite recursion of neon and electricity.  The desert stars blanketing the more remote areas could not compete.

But the inside of the terminal was crowded and dirty.  There were lines of tired, sad faces waiting to buy tickets and bodies sleeping under blankets on the floor, heads covered with newspapers.   I walked outside into the hot, still air and joined a group of tourists walking north on Main Street.  I was wearing a pair of big dark sunglasses I had bought from a street vendor in Hollywood, but I still needed to use my hand as a visor against the brightness and the heat on my face.  Everything was hot and blurry and dull, and I felt the lump in my throat again, and the sudden longing to go home.

Glitter Gulch

We turned onto Fremont Street, a pedestrian walkway lined with famous casinos: Golden Nugget, Golden Gate, Fremont, Binions, Four Queens.  A canopy stretched above the street, providing an artificial sky above the casinos and shelter from the intensity of the sun.

“At night this lights up with millions of light bulbs and they play rocknroll.”  It was a voice raspy from too much smoking and alcohol.  I looked up.  The man was probably in his mid-forties, balding, overweight.  He was holding a drink in one hand and a plastic bucket full of quarters in the other.  I smiled and took off my glasses.

“Are you winning, darlin?”  He asked, returning my smile.

“Not yet,” I said, “how about you?”

“I’m about even,” he said, then:  “Who am I kidding, I’m down.  But I’m keeping the hope alive!”  He jostled me with his elbow and laughed.   We were next to Binion’s.  The marquee read: “FREE! Take your picture with $1,000,000. FREE!”

“They used to call this street Glitter Gulch,” the man said.  I looked at the giant neon cowboy next to the Pioneer Club.  He was smiling with a cigarette in his mouth and he seemed familiar to me in his  jeans and red checked shirt.  His illuminated outline was muted in the daylight, blurrier and softer.  One blue neon finger pointed downward to a sign reading “Souvenirs, Gifts, T-Shirts.”

“Well I’m gonna try my luck over here,” he said, turning towards the Golden Nugget.  He paused under the giant golden awning and looked back at me and winked.  “Good luck, sweetheart.”

“You too,” I said, and I stopped to watch as the automatic doors opened for him. A cacophony of sounds escaped: bells, sirens, the clang of coins hitting metal, faint laughter, loud talking; and cold air laced with cigarette smoke. I watched as he was swallowed up by darkness and flashing lights in the distance.  The doors closed behind him and it was hot and dull again, the sun’s brilliance muted by the mesh canopy above me.

I walked back and forth on Fremont Street for a couple of hours.  It wasn’t until I stopped to buy a coke and a woman dressed as a mermaid came over to put a string of plastic beads around my neck that I realized the lump in my throat was gone.


Longest dream ever.

I tried to work it out “Inception”-style, but when I woke up, you were still dead.


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