Category Archives: Story in progress

Campeche

I remembered the feel of his words, rough and dirty, rushing over my skin.  His vowels were elongated.  Each unfamiliar structure tumbled from his mouth quickly, tenses unformed, everything infused with unintentional urgency.

“Podemos hablar en español,” I said, but he ignored me.  After a while I stopped listening and just watched the way his stomach moved on his inhalations, and the drops of sweat snaking their way down his chest onto the mattress, bisecting him at his rib cage.

I wanted to be back on that dirty mattress with him, drunk and dizzy, not caring.

His friend dropped us off in front of a yard with a rusty chain link fence.

“Talk,” Fernando said and gestured toward a woman sitting at the far end of the yard, “entre mujeres.”

I walked back, threading my way through old car parts and metal barrels filled with newspaper and rags.  The ground was muddy with green weeds pushing up everywhere.  There were a few children running around and a couple of skinny old dogs.  The girl stood as I approached and asked if I wanted a coke.  She addressed me using the formal “you,” and I felt uncomfortable. I wiped the back of my hand over my mouth, hard, trying to get rid of the stain of last night’s lipstick.

The toucans began croaking in the banyan trees.  Dark clouds were moving in and the air was thick and heavy.  The air tasted like salt.  I felt my skin, nostrils, lungs, throat being hydrated.

She sliced white crescents from a coconut, squeezed lime and sprinkled chile, and then handed the pieces to her children.  When she bent down her braid fell forward.  I wanted to grab that braid and hold on.  It was black and shiny except at the tips where it had lightened and dried out, bleached by the jungle sun.  I thought it would probably feel warm and real in my hand.

“You don’t have to stay,” Fernando had said when we woke up that morning, still half drunk.

“Yes I do,” I said.  ”Now I do.”

“Why are you here?” the girl asked.

“Vacation,” I lied. Her eyes shone.

“Have you traveled?” I asked.  She shook her head.

“I want to move to your country,” she said.  Her kids were gathering under the tin roof and sitting on boxes, getting ready for the rain.

“This is paradise,” I said, and gestured to the palms hanging low, the reddish gray sky.  She looked at the children, the rotting wooden floorboards, her husband and Fernando smoking cigarettes by the road.  “No, this is not paradise,” she said.

We took a taxi back to my hotel.  Fernando couldn’t hustle me for anything else, I was broke, so he kissed me and walked across the street to the lagoon.  I waited on the beach for a while, watching the sun set in slivers where the clouds separated.  When I went inside the chill of the room shocked me.  I turned off the ac and opened the sliding glass door to the balcony.  I opened the screen and turned off the lights.  I didn’t care about mosquitoes or other bugs right then.  I kind of wanted someone  to drink my blood.


Glitter Gulch – in progress

 

Fremont Street Cowboy

Fremont Street Cowboy (Photo credit: Wade Brooks)

As soon as the bus left Los Angeles I felt freer, like I could breathe more easily.  I leaned my head against the window and watched the landscape change as we drove east.  Miles of desert were punctuated with dry brush and trees.  Hills made of red and brown rocks rose out of the dirt at intervals, casting shadows over the freeway.  The air beyond the mountains looked orange- blue and dusty.  When the freeway narrowed to two lanes we slowed, inching along behind a string of red taillights.  The mood in the bus changed from excitement to frustration.  “We need to get there and lose some money!” Someone joked and everyone laughed.

As we exited the freeway, I pressed my palm against the window to see if I could feel the desert heat through the glass.

From the outside, the Las Vegas greyhound station looked magical.  The walls above the greyhound logo were paneled with large shimmery gold tiles which reflected the buildings across the street.  Later I would discover that the exterior walls of many buildings in Las Vegas were covered with gold and silver tiles, and the windows were all reflective glass so that at night every light was multiplied, shimmering into each mirror and glass and creating an infinite recursion of neon and electricity.  The desert stars blanketing the more remote areas could not compete.

But the inside of the terminal was crowded and dirty.  There were lines of tired, sad faces waiting to buy tickets and bodies sleeping under blankets on the floor, heads covered with newspapers.   I walked outside into the hot, still air and joined a group of tourists walking north on Main Street.  I was wearing a pair of big dark sunglasses I had bought from a street vendor in Hollywood, but I still needed to use my hand as a visor against the brightness and the heat on my face.  Everything was hot and blurry and dull, and I felt the lump in my throat again, and the sudden longing to go home.

Glitter Gulch

We turned onto Fremont Street, a pedestrian walkway lined with famous casinos: Golden Nugget, Golden Gate, Fremont, Binions, Four Queens.  A canopy stretched above the street, providing an artificial sky above the casinos and shelter from the intensity of the sun.

“At night this lights up with millions of light bulbs and they play rocknroll.”  It was a voice raspy from too much smoking and alcohol.  I looked up.  The man was probably in his mid-forties, balding, overweight.  He was holding a drink in one hand and a plastic bucket full of quarters in the other.  I smiled and took off my glasses.

“Are you winning, darlin?”  He asked, returning my smile.

“Not yet,” I said, “how about you?”

“I’m about even,” he said, then:  “Who am I kidding, I’m down.  But I’m keeping the hope alive!”  He jostled me with his elbow and laughed.   We were next to Binion’s.  The marquee read: “FREE! Take your picture with $1,000,000. FREE!”

“They used to call this street Glitter Gulch,” the man said.  I looked at the giant neon cowboy next to the Pioneer Club.  He was smiling with a cigarette in his mouth and he seemed familiar to me in his  jeans and red checked shirt.  His illuminated outline was muted in the daylight, blurrier and softer.  One blue neon finger pointed downward to a sign reading “Souvenirs, Gifts, T-Shirts.”

“Well I’m gonna try my luck over here,” he said, turning towards the Golden Nugget.  He paused under the giant golden awning and looked back at me and winked.  “Good luck, sweetheart.”

“You too,” I said, and I stopped to watch as the automatic doors opened for him. A cacophony of sounds escaped: bells, sirens, the clang of coins hitting metal, faint laughter, loud talking; and cold air laced with cigarette smoke. I watched as he was swallowed up by darkness and flashing lights in the distance.  The doors closed behind him and it was hot and dull again, the sun’s brilliance muted by the mesh canopy above me.

I walked back and forth on Fremont Street for a couple of hours.  It wasn’t until I stopped to buy a coke and a woman dressed as a mermaid came over to put a string of plastic beads around my neck that I realized the lump in my throat was gone.


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